Survivor training

Coming to Uganda during the rainy season means sudden, but short, downpours, overcast skies, muddied streets, and time for their delicacy: grasshoppers. You can either buy them fresh (yes, still hopping) and prepare them on your own or you can opt for the ready-killed-and-ready-to-eat from any number of street vendors. They are generally priced by the cupful, but considering I am a novice, I asked for a spoonful (cost 50 cents). Fried in oil, generously salted and dusted with onion powder (to help disguise the smell of the bug), they taste remarkably like stale movie theatre popcorn. Even the irritating sensation of getting a kernel lodged in a molar is replicated, but this time, it's with a leg or tentacle. As I picked my teeth afterwards, I tried to refrain from thinking too much about it.

Dog-free Uganda?

One of the most startling observations I have had since arriving in Uganda are the lack of dogs. In most of the up-and-coming countries I have traveled to, dogs are everywhere. They tend to follow the trash, and despite Kampala's efforts to "Keep It Clean", trash is easy to find. But the dogs are in hiding. Except for one local supermarket where I am still a little unsure of whether "dog meat" is meant to feed man's best friend, or if it is the reason I can't find any dogs around.

Uganda dining 101

Admittedly I have only been here a few days, so I am no expert, but for those of you considering traveling here, I have a few dining pointers. The currency is the shilling which is basically 2000 to 1 USD. You will want to make sure you have a bunch of small bills as most places (at least the ones I go to), don't have change for anything upwards of $20 USD. The cost of a meal at a nice restaurant is approximately $8 USD, but you can easily eat meals for less than $3 USD. The "rich people's" diet consists of very starch and carbo-heavy items (e.g. rice, beans, mashed plantains, white bread), so if you want a balanced meal, it is best to stay to a poor person's diet which is where you will find your vegetables. If you are a mzungu (like me), the assumption will be that you will want your meats fried, but stay with what the locals do, and go for the grill instead. Word of warning here ... you might not want to do a "grill sample" unless you really like offal. My suggestion is to stick to the pieces of meat which are recognizable. Most people speak English, so asking questions isn't a problem, but learning a few basics like "thank you" in Luganda will get you props (and perhaps an even bigger smile). There is a sizable Indian population because many relocated here when the railroad was being built, so samosas and curries are readily available. As a side note, I have been told that we are currently in the height of "cricket season" so I am off to find some tasty morsels before I leave on the gorilla trek.

A bird of a different color ...

One of the sights you will get used to seeing in and around Kampala are birds, but not your ordinary bird. Imagine a bird you see everyday (a pigeon or a chicken perhaps) and now make it stand three feet stand and be able to look you in the eye. Add to it some disgustingly phallic features and that is what perches on the street corners here. On the good side, I have yet to see many ne'er-do-wells loitering - perhaps because of these unsightly creatures. Perhaps everyone has mistreated a bird in their past life and they collectively fear that these birds have returned to exact revenge. It is really the first time in my life that I have been less fearful of bird droppings, and instead am worried that I am about to be mugged by one of these feathered felons. The polite name for this bird species is Maribou Stork. Sounds so much nicer than some of the names I gave it!

Into Africa

I have arrived in Uganda and am preparing my mzungu (non African) self to hit the streets of Kampala. This evening is a little extraordinary as I am going all out and staying at the Serena Hotel (one of Kampala's nicest). The last time I had anything to do with a Serena Hotel, it was in Kabul where the ex pats would go on Saturdays to enjoy electricity, brunch and a brief respite from the fact that we were in Afghanistan. That hotel was subsequently bombed, and there went our oasis. I am hoping for a better future for this Serena ... at least while I am here!