Friday, September 18, 2009

The secret of Machu Picchu




Machu Picchu, the lost Incan city is amazing. Breathtaking. None of my pictures can capture its glory in the dawn hour. None of my pictures can capture the narrow and steep trails that take you to the most spectacular vistas (but from what you see above, I tried to give you a glimpse). But what I have chosen to share with you instead about Peru´s national treasure is a secret of sorts; one that few guidebooks tell you about. Peru´s most atrocious beast lives within the walls and steps of Machu Picchu: the sand fly. These little buggers feast of your skin without you kknowing it. After just a few minutes of exposed leg skin, welts will begin to form. In fact, in the area of Aguas Calientes (where overnight tourists stay), you will see a parade of welty legs. If you are lucky, the bite will become itchy, welt up, and disfigure you for a few days. View it as a badge of honor. The unlucky ones will be snacked upon, but instead of welting up, small pin prick dots will litter your skin. Those dots will stay with you for 1-2 months. The best advice I can give is to wear long pants, tucked inside socks, and spray deet over your entire body. You won´t win any beauty contests, but it will make for a more pleasant few days. While the legs are favored, if your arms get close enough to the ground (which happens if you climb the steep Wanyapicchu), you will be devoured in the upper region too. This warning applies only to Machu Picchu and not along the Inca Trail. There, lama dung is your greatest threat. But honestly, if you can´t hack a little dung, perhaps you want to consider a cruise instead.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

The pre-trek




Disregard my earlier posting about high altitude immunity. After a 8 hour trek (which should have lasted 5 hours), I am clearly not immune to the high altitude.
In fact, when I heard that a typical Andean custom was to mummify the dead in the fetal position, I was only too happy to take a "time out" of trekking to show how the dead would be wrapped.